Kanpur’s food streets have survived redevelopment, relocation and three generations of changing taste. Most of the stalls worth queueing for have been in the same spot for decades.
Birhana Road
Birhana Road fills up after seven in the evening. The chaat stalls at the eastern end are the older ones, and the queues move faster than they look.
Gumti
Gumti runs later and leans savoury. The kebab counters open around eight and most sell out before midnight on weekends.
Parking is the main constraint at both. Going on foot from the nearest main road is faster than circling for a space.